I heard somewhere once that some of Île Saint-Louis’s old residents have never, in their entire life, stepped off of their island. And I believe it. Why would they need to? It’s an idyllic, centrally-located enclave surrounded by the languid River Seine. And it’s where the government keeps its strategic stockpile of the so-called best ice cream in the world — Berthillon…truth or fiction? You decide. (Hint: Try the caramel beurre salé flavor. It’s kinda great.) Hop over to Île de la Cité next door to experience Notre-Dame cathedral, la Sainte-Chapelle, Place Dauphine, and the quaint—and surprisingly calm—historic streets in between. Oui, there will be tourists, but also some spots carved our for locals.
