Butte aux Cailles / Place d’Italie

If you’ve decided to venture out to this side of town, you’ll be well-rewarded with the Buttes-aux-Cailles, as it’s a charming area that captures the heart of young families as well as trendy and festive Parisians (if they bother to schlep all the way here, that is). It’s one of the few places left in Paris with a village feel—like Montmartre, but less crowded and much, much, MUCH less hilly (your thighs will thank you). Wander through paved alleys and find adorable houses that will give even the most secure of you penis-envy. But the real pièce de résistance of the Buttes-Aux-Cailles is the jaw-dropping street art, including stencils from the late MissTic. Quiet during the day but positively buzzing in the evening, it’s an alternative area only the locals know, and coming here will give you Paris insider-knowledge cred you can boast about. The area around Place d’Italie itself isn’t worth raving about, but it’s a handy gateway to the other areas in the 13th.

bakeries + sweets

Lorette Gourmet Bakery

Lau­rent Duchêne

Boulan­gerie Mai­son M’ssedi

Boulan­gerie de la Place


Chez Glad­ines

Le Temps de Ceris­es S.C.O.P.

Chez Natal­ie

Saveurs des Blés

Buja Veg­e­tar­i­an

Mar­so & co



food markets

Marché Alésia

Rue de la Glacière
Open: Wed — 7a to 1:30p; Sat — 7a to 2:30p

Marché Auguste Blanqui

Boule­vard Auguste Blan­qui
Open: Tue, Fri — 7a to 1:30p; Sun — 7a to 2:30p

Marché Mai­son-Blanche

Avenue d’I­tal­ie
Open: Thu — 7a to 1:30p; Sun — 7a to 2:30p