Cour St. Emilion / Bercy

Previously the largest wine depot in the world, the Cour Saint-Émilion underwent an epic glow-up into a cobblestoned, pedestrian promenade, with its former storage houses turned into mainstream chain restaurants and shops. There’s nothing else of note in this nabe apart from this pretty cobblestoned street, the nearby park, the megaplex showing flicks mercifully NOT dubbed in French, and the occasional art installation. If you’re a Frank Gehry fan, check out his architecture at the nearby Cinémathèque Française, a small building housing a cool museum dedicated to cinema with tons of well-curated indie and historic movies in their repertoire. For a taste of quirkiness, there’s the Pavilions of Bercy, a private museum showcasing old attraction park rides from the 19th and 20th centuries. Except between Christmas and early January, when it’s open to the public, you need to prebook for a tour (the vintage, working rides require hosting and handling by experts), so take this into consideration.

bakeries + sweets

Eric Kayser

Ernest + Valentin


L’Auberge Avey­ron­naise



museums + culture

Les Pavil­lons de Bercy — Musée des Arts Forains

La Ciné­math­èque Française

food markets

Marché Bercy

Place Lachambeaudie/Rue Baron-le-Roy
Open: Wed — 10a to 8p; Sun — 7a to 2:30p

Marché de la Porte Dorée

Avenue Daumes­nil
Open: Thu — 7a to 1:30p; Sun — 7a to 2:30p